The latest Dsquared runway show was more than just a catwalk, it was a celebration of 30 years of provocative and defiant fashion. Twin brothers, Dean and Dan, took Milan Fashion Week as the perfect occasion to stage an over-the-top performance in honour of the anniversary. The name of the collection, “Obsessed2”, is a testimonial to the passion and dedication the twins have infused into their work throughout the years. In the wake of the fashion show, one thing is sure: the Caten brothers can’t say no to a party.
“The most unexpected, exciting and undeniably sexy fashion mashups yet”, or one of the descriptions given of Dsquared2’s iconic fashion show for MFW 2025 and the brand’s 30th anniversary. The Caten brothers’ FW25 collection reveal gave way to a yet unequalled crossing between modern pop culture, a top-tier model casting and the appearance of today’s most trending celebrities, hinting to their previous collaborations on the runway with personalities like Christina Aguilera, Rihanna and many others.
The audience of Via Rubattino 56 was transported into the atmosphere of an animated NYC nightclub’s gates, where the real fun of the night happens. In a continuous coming and going movement, vintage cars, pick-ups and yellow taxis unloaded an unbelievably diverse and exclusive set of night creatures on the catwalk. All were unique party animals united by Dsquared2’s spirit of freedom: cowboys, red carpet stars, BDSM cops and disco queens successively walked their way to the party, each representing an archetype of the brand’s history. As Dean Caten said backstage, “We have a story, we have lots to tell, and we have lots to look back at and to look forward to”: this show was a tribute to what the brand has accomplished throughout the years. Cowboys dressed in denim pieces tell the story of the garment that the two brothers are best known for, jeans, despite the fact they were forbidden to wear them as children. Their aim was always to bring on the runway the clothes they themselves adored to wear and every outfit designed for the FW25 collection conveys this. The emergence of trending rapper Doechii from an armored tank full of dollar bills, as she fished a cigarette from the pack carefully stuck in the sleeve of her top, clashed with the arrival of a top-of-the-notch selection of models, including all-time star Naomi Campbell and her Tina Turner inspired hairstyle, gen-Z protégée Alex Consani but also Tyson Bedford, Irina Shayk, Yasmin Wijnaldum and rising American model Amelia Gray, to cite a few.
The profusion of known faces and adored celebrities set the stage for the announcement of several collaborations. The fact that FW25 was the brand’s collection including the highest number of collaborations with other brands confirms that Dsquared2 is aging well. As proof of this, two looks signed by Luca Magliano, from Magliano, appeared on the catwalk last Monday. One gave a grunge reinterpretation of the cowboy universe, while the second one – a wool vest with diamonds and perfectly cut red threads along with a leather mini-short, bordering on the underwear – officialized the birth of an exciting capsule collection (see pictures below), which Magliano made public on Instagram a few days ago.
The label’s 30th anniversary also marked the return of archival pieces onto the runway, reworked by Dean & Dan together with young brands characterized by an already-known coolness: among them Vaquera, Julie Pelipas’ sustainable brand Better, and even the motorcycle brand Ducati (whose aesthetic perfectly matches the abundant leather pieces and accessories we could spot on the runway).
These new partnerships definitely work in Dsquared2’s favor to keep the spotlights set on the brand now that the show is over. Above that, they also reflect what seemed to be the purpose of the Caten brothers’ Milanese performance: giving a tribute to the past by celebrating the present and accounting for a promising future.
Vanity Fair Italy described the collection’s clothes as “messy, sweaty, cheeky, just like in the center of a dance floor”. Indeed, this time like everytime with the Caten brothers, there was no middle ground: the guests were either served with multiple layers of different fabrics or a paradoxically striking and extravagant nudity. One of the looks consisted in the layering of double pants, an accumulation of belts as a top and a cowboy hat superimposed on a baseball hat. The next model burst onto the catwalk wearing latex underwear and biker boots. The art of paradox!
The FW25 fashion show Dean & Dan orchestrated symbolized what makes Dsquared2, Dsquared2: a constant tribute to the designers’ passions and fantasies, giving birth to a world we all want to be a part of, at least for a night. The Iconic Skate Boots, also known as Skate Moss Boots, make a long awaited comeback, paired with a nude dress covered with stones, sculpting the image of an Ice Queen. First seen at the brand’s FW11 show, the design of the legendary boots is inspired by the brother’s love for figure skating and blends nostalgia with the Dsquared2 signature edge, transforming a childhood memory into a high-octane footwear piece.
As Dean and Dan look forward while reminiscing about the past, they also pay homage to one of the most supporting people in their lives and work: the creative force and their muse, Julie Enfield. The photographer, model and style icon took the two brothers under her wing when they were most in need and showed them that they have the potential to transform their dream into a living. The sincere note that the twins shared along with the collection divulges how influential Julie Enfield’s presence has been to the existence of the Dsquared2 brand.
Dsquared2 continues to inspire freedom, glamour and the rebellious spirit of fashion, marking with this collection a turning point in the brand’s history. This show proves once again that the triumph of Dsquared2 is not only attributable to its designs, but also to its community. The brand has become a symbol of freedom, lifestyle and philosophy, encouraging people to embrace their true selves, to be bold and brave.
-LBSS’s insider eye during the brand’s FW25 show on MFW 2025’s opening day
