Ten years. That’s all Christian Dior required to establish a fashion empire. While many designers dedicate their entire lives to seeking recognition and validating their talent, Dior captivated the most illustrious names in fashion with a single show, crafting a legacy that endures to this day. Today, the role of Artistic Director at the Maison Dior is highly coveted, having been graced by numerous visionaries: Yves Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane, John Galliano, Maria Grazia Chiuri, and Kim Jones, among others. Each brings a distinct style, unique DNA, and individual approach to fashion. Yet, Dior’s silhouettes remain perpetually recognizable, irrespective of the designer or era, thanks to meticulously defined codes.
It is often presumed that a genius’s path is preordained, that they are innately drawn to a field where excellence and mastery come naturally. We imagine their parents, during their childhood, discerning an extraordinary talent, with the prodigy merely following a destined path, facing challenges solely related to their chosen field. However, it wasn’t until the age of 42 that Christian Dior chose to inaugurate his first fashion boutique at 30 Avenue Montaigne. Hailing from an affluent family, he initially pursued architecture—much to his parents’ chagrin, who aspired for him to become a diplomat—before transitioning to a gallery owner. Concurrently, he cultivated a profound passion for fashion illustration, and in 1946, while contemplating the launch of his own brand for many months, he stumbled upon a small metallic object. Upon picking it up, Monsieur Dior realized it was a star and, being deeply superstitious, interpreted it as a fortuitous omen, its “lucky star”, prompting him to establish his fashion house.
This pivotal moment marked the genesis of the Maison’s enduring legacy. The star became one of five talismans that Christian Dior consistently carried in his pocket, alongside a gold coin, a piece of wood, a heart, and a sprig of lily of the valley. These cherished charms have evolved into recurring motifs within the Dior’s aesthetic, creating cohesive threads across various collections, both menswear and womenswear. Notably, this distinct star was prominently featured in Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Spring-Summer 2017 collection, which delved into astrological themes, serving as a subtle homage to one of Dior’s early 1952 collections titled “La Bonne Étoile.”
Lily of the valley also emerges as a recurrent theme in the brand’s visual narrative, as does the rose, both remaining profound sources of inspiration for the Maison’s artistic directors. These two blossoms were among Christian Dior’s favorites; he harbored a particular passion for botany and even contemplated establishing a florist business. Since the inception of Dior, seamstresses and employees have been annually gifted a small sprig of lily of the valley, firmly embedding this flower as a quintessential symbol within the Maison. Perceived by the founder as emblematic of beauty and femininity, he had already transformed these blooms into potent symbols through creations like the “Robe Muguet” and the iconic “Robe Junon,” which later inspired Yves Saint Laurent during the Dior Spring-Summer 1999 show.
While evening gowns draw inspiration from specific details or themes, it is imperative to highlight a silhouette that catapulted Dior to the zenith of fashion genius: the “Tailleur Bar.” Unveiled in his inaugural show, it garnered accolades from American editors-in-chief, who hailed him as the progenitor of the “New Look.” The concept was straightforward: during an era when wartime austerity and designers like Gabrielle Chanel had popularized increasingly simple and linear silhouettes, Christian Dior resurrected the cinched waist reminiscent of the corset era by structuring the hips to appear more voluminous. This approach achieved immediate acclaim, albeit not without controversy, as Monsieur Dior paired this suit with a pleated skirt—a garment necessitating a substantial amount of fabric during the post-war period of scarcity. His audacity not only secured instant success but also significantly contributed to the Maison’s heritage, as today, the ” Tailleur Bar ” is reimagined by nearly every artistic director of the Maison. For instance, Raf Simons reinterpreted it as a blazer epitomizing the modern, empowered woman, while John Galliano employed it to delve into a more theatrical and historical aesthetic.
If there’s one conviction I hold about this esteemed Maison, it is that Dior’s genius is timeless, precisely because it awaited the perfect moment to unveil itself. Christian Dior may have inaugurated his boutique at a relatively mature age, yet the essence of Dior had been an integral part of him since his early years. He himself revealed that his childhood abode in Granville, with windows opening directly to the sea, allowed him to indulge in prolonged daydreams during his youth, fostering an insatiable sense of wonder throughout his life. It is from these reveries that the themes and aesthetics associated with Dior emerge. Designers draw inspiration from this dreamscape, as it encompasses immortal desires and imaginations: travel, astrology, nature. Who could ever cease to be inspired by such motifs? Jonathan Anderson, having recently succeeded Kim Jones at the helm of menswear, will also inherit these numerous codes (not all mentioned here), as well as this gateway into Dior’s universal aesthetic: the art of dreaming.
