The debate surrounding the integration of sustainability into a luxury brand’s core business is heating up once again. On January 20, President Donald Trump withdrew the U.S. from the Paris Agreement, a move which was praised by Bernard Arnault. In response, Stella McCartney parted ways with LVMH, choosing to reclaim her independence. According to McKinsey & Co.’s The State of Fashion 2025 report, sustainability is slipping down the priority list: only 18% of fashion executives worldwide now consider it a key focus, compared to 29% last year. The focus has shifted from greenwashing to greenhushing. Fearing criticism, brands are slowing down or even hiding their eco-friendly efforts. On the demand side, more buyers are wary of misleading claims and rising prices, and there are also those who see sustainability as a political tool. Real progress may come to a halt. However, for the true leaders in luxury fashion, this cannot be the case. Sustainability must be at the heart of any brand with a strong vision for the future. So let’s explore some of the brands that are setting the standard.
Source: Vogue Business, Chloé S/S 2022 Campaign
Gabriela Hearst:
In September 2023, Gabriela Hearst stepped down as Chloé’s creative director to focus on her own brand. At this point, she had made a lasting impact on the fashion house, launching many sustainability initiatives and transforming its production practices. Under her leadership, Chloé became the first luxury brand in the world to achieve B Corp certification in 2021. On her departure, Chloé CEO Riccardo Bellini and Richemont Group CEO Philippe Fortunato praised Hearst’s contributions, recognizing her role in positioning Chloé as a leader in sustainable luxury.
Today, in New York, Hearst continues to shape the industry with her eponymous brand, known for its refined, eco-friendly creations. Shortly after leaving Chloé, she made history at New York Fashion Week by organizing the first-ever carbon-neutral runway show. Sustainability remains at the heart of her work, with approximately 25% of her collections crafted from deadstock materials: fabrics that would otherwise go to waste. Hearst’s vision? To create timeless, beautifully crafted pieces made from the right materials. To make clothes that excite from a design point of view, but are also built to last a lifetime. As she puts it, “A woman doesn’t want to get rid of this dress, she wants to keep it forever”.
Source: Vogue Business
Federico Cina
Italy is known for its craftsmanship, but the fragmented supply chains of the Made in Italy sector are struggling to meet the demands of the EU’s incoming sustainability regulations. Former LVMH Prize finalist Federico Cina is determined to change that. With his label he wants to make a tribute to his home region, Romagna. In fact, one of the brand’s distinctive motifs is a grape design inspired by traditional Romagnola patterns, often seen on tablecloths. This artisanal printing technique is available at only three boutique suppliers in Italy.
Federico Cina incorporates this craft into nearly all of its garments, but because the technique can only be applied to natural fibers, the brand is committed to using them exclusively. While sustainability isn’t a marketing strategy for the label, transparency is a core value. The brand produces only around 2,000 garments per season, ensuring precise payments to suppliers and maintaining close relationships with them. However, it is not afraid to push back when those relationships compromise its values. For instance, when some suppliers suggested outsourcing production to Albania while still labeling the garments as Made in Italy, the brand refused despite the potential cost savings. By keeping production local, Federico Cina keeps greater oversight, frequently visiting suppliers to maintain quality. Some of the brand’s suppliers even modeled its latest collection, which was significantly scaled back to half the size of previous seasons. As the brand puts it: “When you see a huge collection every time, it just encourages waste, this is not needed at this point in time.”
Source: Vogue Business
Ann Demeulemeester :
Although not strictly a green initiative, the Belgian brand has launched a limited-edition t-shirt this month in support of Save the Children, to again show its commitment to blending fashion with social responsibility. This initiative aims to raise funds to provide essential resources for children in need worldwide.
Embodying the brand’s signature poetic elegance and creative spirit, the t-shirt became available on February 21, 2025, at the Antwerp flagship store, the official e-commerce platform, and selected retailers. This project continues Ann Demeulemeester’s tradition of exploring the intersection of art, fashion, and social impact. By purchasing this exclusive piece, customers not only get a unique garment but also contribute directly to a cause dedicated to improving the lives of vulnerable children.
Source: nssmag.com
