2024 has been a strong year for horological evolution. Between watches & wonders and Baselworld, many new timepieces have been unveiled.
Patek Philippe in particular has always followed its own parth in releasing new watches. Even now, the timeline is quintessentially Patek: in autumn, not usually a period of watch release sas is Spring, the Stern family, proprietary of the Patek mark, has taken the world by storm with its first new line release in over 25 years, since the birth of the Aquanaut in 1997. What’s good, what’s not and what’s ugly about the new Cubitus?
Designwise, new is not the right word, evolutionary is more than adequate. 45 millimiter squarecase, integrated bracelet, deployant buckle and a stripe dial usual of Patek’s purebread, the Nautilus.
Nautilus it resembles indeed, with sharper lines and larger proportions but the design language issimilar: brushed and shiny steel bracelet, 3-o-clock date, sweep seconds and (for the platinum) big date at twelve-o-clock configuration, everything seems familiar to me.
Let’s look at the influence other watches had on this releaase, because it seems that more than a watch was taken as inspiration.
Many compare it to the Cartier Santos but it seems a more than superficial comparison to me. Santos is an icon, as much as the Nautilus is and it stands in its own league.
I think that with these exaggerated, a bit nostalgic proportions, Patek paid homage to its ownheritage and also knocking on its nearest neighbour’s door.
Two watches come to mind: Patek’s Cioccolatone line and the Vacheron Constantin 222 with the square dial.
The Cubitus exudes a kind of seventies nostalgia (when the square and “TV” shapes were the hottest trends) and embodies the language of the Cioccolatone with the proportions of the 222.
Nevertheless, it represents the needs of Patek in the 2020s where they need a new entry model to lay under the Nautilius itself, with its long and strict waiting lists and buying policies.
Pricing is more than up to date, with the steel green dial with bracelet starting at more than 41000 dollars. Steel and rose gold with blue dial and bracelet is the mid-range at around 60000 dollars and the top of the line platinum with big date on strap retailing for over 80000.
With these attributes and at this price point, the Cubitus aims to compete directly with variousupscale sports watches from other renowned houses like the Overseas from Vacheron Constantin, the Tonda from Parmigiani Fleurier and the Marine from Breguet.
Horological gurus are all expressing their opinions and concerns, wheter it is a safe bet or something plainly lazy. One thing is for sure: we all need to get used to it. The larger proportionswant to attract a younger, sportier clientelle, that love and respect the brand and eventually in the future will become Nautilus owners, staying true to Patek’s leitmotif “You never merely own a Patek, you keep it and pass it onto the next generation”.
